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Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has left the family completely shocked.

“I am utterly surprised,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small place securing such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.

It is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this culinary honour.